In May 2025, I joined a group organized by Walkers Britain to walk and explore the world famous Hadrian’s Wall (HW) National Path in northern England. Remains of this Roman wall stretch 73 miles (117 kms) from Wallsend (Segedunum), east of Newcastle-upon-Tyne on the North Sea coast, to Bowness-on-Solway, on the Solway Firth west of the town of Carlisle. The wall crosses the largely rural counties of Northumberland and Cumbria. The path is 84 miles (135 kms), with side trips to accommodations often adding a few more steps. Thankfully, each inn or hotel where we stayed offered drinks, good food, and a comfortable bed!
The HW was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. Construction of the wall started in AD 122 at the bequest of Roman Emperor Hadrian. It involved 15000 soldiers from three legions and numerous conscripts. Together, they built the wall with its various fortifications and watch towers across the undulating and wild landscape. The purpose was to monitor the movements of, and prevent incursions by, the Highland clans (Picts) from what is now called Scotland. The wall and its fortresses marked the most northern part of Roman Britannia.
Many remnants of the wall, its forts, smaller mile-castles, turrets and vallums (large defensive ditches) survive, especially in the central part of the country, thanks in large part to an enlightened Victorian, John Clayton of Chesters (Richards 2023). He purchased the land where they lay. Much of the wall had previously been pillaged over the centuries, its cut stone recycled into village homes, farm buildings and churches. Around Newcastle and at its western end, the wall has largely disappeared.
As a British cultural icon (Wikipedia 2025), walking the HW path in whole or in part is a fascinating historical journey. Being easily accessible by car or bus, it attracts thousands of tourists and walkers every year. Several excellent museums enroute illustrate its history and recent archeological finds (e.g., shoes, inscribed tablets, household items) shed light on the lives of the soldiers and their families; archaeological excavations continue to this day. As we were walking the entire wall’s length in six days, too little time was spent at the major sites and interpretive centers, certainly a good reason for a return visit.
Our walking group met and introduced each other over dinner on a Saturday evening (May 10th) at a B and B in Whitley Bay, near Wallsend – three Canadians (Ruth, Daryl, me), two Americans (Kim, Beverly), one Australian (David), one British (Sally), and our British guide, John, all experienced walkers. Starting out early on a clear Sunday morning, we took the local train to Segedunum, Wallsend, location of a fabulous museum and a huge patch of Roman foundations. We started walking on a level footpath running alongside the River Tyne, soon coming to Newcastle, famous for its numerous bridges, old and new. We followed the river westward for much of the first day, along many park paths, old wagon-ways and some roads, ending in the village of Wylam and its hotel, the first of five on our walk.
For the whole week, our walk followed the wall’s route as closely as possible. We were blessed with fine dry weather, some days being unusually hot. I wore shorts; rain gear stayed in the pack. We carried lots of water. We ate well, “lots of carbs for breakfast, protein for dinner”, a hiker’s mantra.
On the second day, we soon gained some height of land and had our first viewing of the Roman stone wall in the town of Heddon-on-the-Wall. It was long and impressive, carefully built, and had remains of a built-in kiln. We walked all day along roads and farm fields and through woods, being kept at a good pace. There was little wall left to see on this day but we often followed the vallums; they were a key part of the defensive system. This day ended by crossing an ancient bridge over the North Tyne river to Chollerford and the George Hotel, our second night stop.
Our little group had now bonded, sharing personal stories and supporting each other as we trudged along, led by our knowledgeable and energetic leader. Besides walking and interpreting, John was taking many photos, which he kindly sent to us post-trip.
The third and fourth days of walking in central Northumberland showed much of the remaining wall and its associated structures, and illustrated the amazing effort taken to build it. The terrain’s crags are quite rugged and undulating, rough under foot, and very scenic. Its remoteness and beauty were the best part of the walk.
We lunched at Housesteads, site of a massive fort and foundations of associated buildings, including granaries and latrines. We briefly visited its National Trust museum and explored the enormous site that gives a feel for a soldier’s life on the frontier of Roman Britannia. It was impressive and memorable.
Late in the day, we came to the picturesque Sycamore Gap. It’s iconic and world famous tree had been vandalized recently; its stump is in an enclosure, so sad to see. A few people had gathered about, treating the area as a shrine. But the Gap is still beautiful, with views in all directions. Late in the day, we left the path again to stay at the Twice Brewed Inn, with its specially named local brews, some commemorating the now-missing tree. Most of our team went star gazing at the nearby observatory. Being a long day, I sought my pillow instead!
Day four’s walk was also long and tiring, over 49,000 foot steps on my FitBit (37 kms). Long stretches of wall and path crossed many small rocky hills (crags) and above small ponds, likely the old quarries. It was the most picturesque and rugged part of the walk. It is amazing that the Romans built the wall and dug the ditches across such challenging land, the heights likely being considered more defensible. At day’s end, we found ourselves at the picturesque town of Brampton and stayed at the Victorian Howard Arms Hotel. As usual, the day ended with a nutritious dinner, lots of lively conversation recounting the day’s highlights, and another early night.
The fifth day took us into the Cumbrian countryside and across many farms and along farm fields. We saw countless sheep and their lambs, the latter so cute but sadly so close to becoming lamb chops! One field had friendly lamas. Some long road walking at a good pace took us to the wooded outskirts of historic Carlisle and its picturesque River Eden. Carlisle was our base for two nights at the comfortable Abbey Court Guesthouse.
The following day, our last, started with an enjoyable bus ride to Bowness-on-Solway, on the Solway Firth. This is both the official end and start of the path. We lined up for stamps in our National Trail Passports. Under sunshine, we started the 23 kms walk back to Carlisle alongside a long and muddy, tidal Bowness estuary, then through woods and fields and along endless roads. The Roman wall here has long disappeared, the stones used over the centuries for local buildings, but there still are some ditches. Mid-afternoon, we had a lovely rest stop for ice cream in the ancient village of Beaumont with its medieval church. The day finished late in Carlisle with a brief look at its castle and visit to its famed cathedral. Our happy but tired group dined that night in an Italian restaurant and recounted highlights of the walk.
Early the next day, we said our goodbyes over breakfast, celebrating the end of a marvelous week of walking and exploring. We promised to stay in touch and exchange photos. Inspired by the variety of long-distance paths in the UK, its history and friendly people, another adventure beckons in 2026.