Stepping out along the stunning Amalfi Coast | John Millen
Blog home / The stunning Amalfi Coast - Travellers' Tale
Charlotte and Sven have been walking together for decades, with a long list of formidable trails behind them. Their most recent adventure took them to Italy's Amalfi Coast, where the steps were endless, the views were breathtaking, and the limoncello was very hard to say no to.
What is your walking history?
Sven and I have been at this a long time. Back in 1995 we walked 1,250 km of the Grand Randonnée Cinq, from Hoek van Holland all the way to Ribeauvillé in France. We had to stop short of the full 2,500 km after I developed stress fractures in my feet, which was a blow, but we were hardly done with big walks. Since then we've trekked to Everest Base Camp and Kangchenjunga Base Camp in Nepal, and more recently completed the Walkers' Britain self-guided Coast to Coast Walk as well as Tuscany on Foot.
Why did you choose to walk where you did?
It was actually a friend who put the idea in our heads. She was meant to come along, but a family illness meant she couldn't make it in the end. We didn't know much about the Amalfi Coast going in, but we're so glad she pointed us in that direction. It turned out to be a wonderful trip.
How did you prepare?
We live on a small island, so long-distance trails aren't really an option for training. We walk our dog to the ferry terminal and back each day, which is about 3 km, and once a week we tackle a 10 km route. We also make good use of our beach stairs, which Sven has lovingly named "Sven's Grind." Fifty-seven steps down to the beach, and we go up and down five or six times a day. It does the job.
What was your favourite destination?
Amalfi itself is a beautiful town, though it gets very busy with cruise ship visitors. What it does have, tucked away behind all of that, is a lovely walk up into the mountains called the Valle dei Mulini, or Valley of the Mills. We were there on a rainy day, but it was wonderfully quiet and the views were something else. That said, my real favourite was Praiano. There's a real artistic spirit to the place, and watching the donkeys and their handlers delivering goods through the village was genuinely special. It felt like a scene that hasn't changed much in a very long time.
Best Food & Drink
If you don't mind something with a bit of kick, the limoncello is absolutely worth trying. And Italian pizza needs no introduction. But the dish that really stood out for the region was caprese salad: ripe tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, fresh basil. Simple and completely delicious.
Biggest surprise?
The sheer beauty of the whole area caught us off guard, honestly. The views at every turn were something we weren't quite prepared for. We were also surprised by how many ceramic workshops there were, and the quality of the work coming out of them.
What aspect of the trip did you find most challenging?
The Pathway to the Gods was the toughest stretch for us, mainly because we both struggle with vertigo. The path itself is reasonably wide, but the drop to the water below is quite steep and does get to you after a while. We also had absolutely no idea we'd be descending 1,860 stairs in a single day at one point. Stairs are simply a feature of everyday life on the Amalfi Coast, and it catches you by surprise if you're not ready for it.
Do you have any other advice for travellers thinking about travelling on this trip?
Practise going up and down stairs. A lot of stairs.