Traveller's Tales: Walking in Italy's Apuane Alps

Amy and her husband happened to strike up a conversation with someone who spoke highly of Walkers' Britain & Europe and decided it sounded like exactly the kind of company they were looking for. Together with another couple from Idaho, USA, they headed off walking in Italy's Apuane Alps. Here is their account of the trip.

A break in the woods below Pania de Croce, Apuane Alps

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What is your walking history?

All four of us live in Idaho and regularly take advantage of the outdoors, including hiking and trail running. My husband and I had done a self-guided hiking tour in Ireland around 16 years ago and thoroughly enjoyed the experience. We prefer to include some adventure and activity in our holidays, and walking is always a wonderful way to discover a new place.

Lunch break at Galataia during a walking holiday in Italy's Apuane Alps

Why did you choose to walk in the Apuane Alps?

As we looked at options for our next walking holiday, we knew we wanted to return to Italy, having not been for 18 years. We also wanted a challenging route, and the Apuane Alps ticked both boxes. The other couple from Idaho who joined us were, as they put it, up for anything.

The trail leading to Galatoio in the Apuane Alps

How did you prepare?

My husband and I had a busy summer of trail running events that set us up well for the trip. One of our friends had an arthroscopic knee procedure around two and a half months before we left and managed absolutely fine. We all came with a solid base of fitness and had no real concerns. We did opt out of the longest day, partly because we recognised we were on holiday.

Walking out of Fornovolasco, Apuane Alps

What was your favourite destination?

We really enjoyed the three nights we spent in Fornovolasco. We were placed in a freestanding apartment across the river from Rifugio La Buca, and were pleasantly surprised to find a washing machine and plenty of space to spread out, dry out and relax. Paula is a fantastic hostess and cook and we thoroughly enjoyed our time there.

Walking above Fornovolasco in remote Tuscany

Best food and drink?

The cappuccinos each morning to send us on our way. The cold Italian birra waiting for us at the end of each walk. And the house vino rosso accompanying every delicious home-cooked dinner. There was not a bad meal in the entire trip. We particularly loved the pasta and tiramisu from Paula in Fornovolasco, and the breakfasts at Albergo Gorizia were a delight, featuring a slice of cheese quite literally the size of a plate.

What was your biggest surprise?

The complete absence of other tourists. We were towards the end of the season and knew this was not one of the more heavily walked routes, but we genuinely did not encounter another hiker on the trail. We visited the Wind Cave outside Fornovolasco and saw people there, but otherwise we had the paths entirely to ourselves and enjoyed every interaction with our hosts along the way.

What did you find most challenging?

The unrelenting rain on the first day as we set out from Fornaci di Barga. It made for a tough start with slick trails, some difficulty with wayfinding and flagging energy levels. However, Manuel and Sylvia, the owners of Agriturismo Summer where we stayed that night, welcomed us warmly, found us a place to dry out, and arranged for some sunshine the following morning as we enjoyed drinks by their pool.

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Italy, self-guided walking, Apuane Alps Traveller's Tale

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