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Traveller’s Tale: Walking The South West Coast Path

Traveller's Tales: Walking the South West Coast Path

Walkers' Britain & Europe traveller Peter G. Wells has walked some of Britain's finest long-distance trails. Over two separate springs, he set out to tackle almost the whole of England's South West Coast Path, starting with the northern stretch from Minehead to St Ives, then returning the following year to complete the southern stretch from Porthleven to Poole Harbour. Here is his account.

A path for smugglers, fishermen and senior hikers

Exploring distant lands on foot is a wonderful pastime, and the South West Coast Path is one of the finest examples anywhere. Running 631 miles (1,016 km) along England's southern and south-western coastline, it is an official National Trail, one of the country's longest, officially starting at Minehead, Somerset, on the Bristol Channel, and ending at South Haven Point, Poole Harbour, Dorset, on the English Channel.

Some parts of the path date back hundreds, if not thousands, of years, trodden by local villagers, fishermen, farmers, smugglers and coastal watchers. In the Second World War, defensive positions such as bunkers and pillboxes were built along the coast, many still intact today.

Afterwards, as the path's many sections were connected, upgraded and clearly waymarked with the acorn symbol, it gained a reputation for easy accessibility, abundant accommodation in the towns and villages it passes through, and the outstanding natural beauty of its coves, cliffs, headlands and beaches. Though it never climbs higher than around 300 metres above the shore, walking its full length end to end is apparently equivalent to climbing Mount Everest four times over.

South West Coast Path walker watching waves below rugged cliffs, England |  Peter Wells South West Coast Path walk, seals resting along a pebble beach, England |  Peter Wells South West Coast Path walker pats a pony beside a fence above the sea, England |  Peter Wells
 

Setting off from Porthleven

In mid-April, after a winter of planning and fitness walking, I embarked on the path's southern stretch along the English Channel. I backpacked for 27 days, starting on a beautiful sunny day at Porthleven, Cornwall, close to Land's End, and completed 285 miles (460 km) of the path, ending at Poole Harbour.

As nights were spent in small hotels, pubs and B&Bs, I carried only essential clothing, water and food, a few key items and my trusty compact camera. Cousins living near the route provided logistical support and considerable encouragement along the way, and a mid-way rest stop in Devon, with fresh clothes and home-cooked meals, was very welcome.

On the path each day I rose early, had a nutritious breakfast, bought lunch locally, and set out for six to eight hours of walking, covering 10 to 12 miles on average. I started out with too much weight and too much ambition for distance, and quickly cut back, given the hilly and often rugged terrain.

It took a few days to adapt physically and mentally to the routine of walking alone, each day, with no other agenda, but meeting people along the way, even briefly, kept my spirits high.

Salt air, wildflowers and watchful steps

Along the English Channel in spring, the ocean air is salty and fresh, the bluebells, wild garlic and daffodils and yellow gorse are in bloom, and the sea is a continuously changing pattern of blues and greys. Going from cove to cove and village to village, crossing estuaries by boat and climbing over headland after headland, there was a real sense of calm discovery.

My primary concerns, as on any long walk, were my feet, which stayed in good shape thanks to a well-worn pair of boots; the weather, which was mostly sunny and warm; and staying alert where the path veered close to cliff edges and dramatic drops to the rocky shore below. Towards the end of the walk there was a stretch of heavy rain, and in east Dorset the path turned indescribably muddy and slippery, but I was lucky to have only three wet days out of the whole trip.

South West Coast Path walking along a grassy clifftop trail above the sea |  Peter Wells South West Coast Path walkers look down over a stone coastal village |  Peter Wells South West Coast Path walker pointing to a giant trail marker sculpture |  Peter Wells
 

A fellow walker on the Jurassic Coast

I met only one other thru-walker the whole way, a lanky and somewhat mysterious fellow from Eastern Europe who seemed to lurk in the background for days on end. Most days I crossed paths with a few day trippers, friendly and curious about why a Canadian would choose to walk in Britain.

Especially welcome was meeting and chatting with an experienced walker from Norfolk on two separate occasions, then running into him and his wife again on the waterfront at Weymouth, Dorset, near the end of the walk. We joined up for two days to continue along the geologically fascinating Jurassic Coast, 100 miles of East Devon and Dorset coastline running from Exmouth to Old Harry Rocks, known internationally for its fossil-rich rock formations and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Reaching Poole Harbour

Just beyond Old Harry Rocks lies Poole Harbour and the southern end of the Coast Path, or the beginning, depending on which way you walk it. That is where my four-week walk ended, greeted by a cousin's family and very glad of a proper bed.

South West Coast Path walking trail curves along cliffs above a turquoise bay |  Peter Wells South West Coast Path walking route passes a chalk hill figure on green hills |  Peter Wells South West Coast Path walkers pass a natural rock arch and cliffs above the sea |  Peter Wells
 

Returning north: Minehead to St Ives

The following spring I returned to England to walk the northern, less populated stretch of the Coast Path, along the coastlines of Somerset, Devon and Cornwall. I started from the small fishing town of Minehead, the official starting point of the path, marked by a striking metal sculpture at Mile 0.

The walk of 216 miles (400 km) took three weeks, ending at the artists' enclave of St Ives, Cornwall, on the open Atlantic.

Exmoor's cliffs and an early spring battering

The early spring brought wet, windy weather and undulating terrain that made the first week quite challenging. There had been recent snow, and few people were out walking. The hills of Exmoor National Park meet the Bristol Channel with headlands and rocky cliffs among the highest in Britain, demanding many steep ascents and descents between shoreline and clifftop.

With the prevailing south-westerly wind in my face and the path often deep in mud, some rainy early days felt like an endless trudge, while others brought clearer skies and superb long views of the coastline still to come. I again carried only the essentials and pre-booked nineteen nights in small inns, hotels and farmhouses, including one magnificent 19th century manor house, which kept me fed and rested along the way.

South West Coast Path hikers walk a cliffside trail above a pebble beach |  Peter Wells South West Coast Path walking past a thatched cottage amid coastal wildflowers |  Peter Wells South West Coast Path walk reveals a robin perched among spring branches |  Peter Wells
 

Villages, ponies and permissive paths

This part of the path is remarkable for its varied geology, long sandy beaches, huge sand dune systems, two large estuaries and countless headlands and streams. I passed through quaint villages such as Combe Martin, the longest village in England, Clovelly, famous for its extreme steepness, and Port Isaac, on a picturesque fishing cove and better known these days as the setting for the television series Doc Martin.

Where the path runs alongside farmland there are permissive paths and plenty of stiles and gates, and I often had to manoeuvre around sheep, cattle and, on this northern stretch, free-roaming ponies that were always happy to welcome a greeting and a pat. In northern Cornwall there are also more desolate stretches where the clifftops still show the scars of old tin and lead mining.

Being an early, cool spring, few flowers were yet in bloom, but nature made up for it in other ways. There were grey seals, miles of heathland, big wild seas, views across to the mysterious Lundy Island with its seabird colonies, and numerous conservation areas protecting breeding birds. The long surf beaches along this stretch, fully exposed to the Atlantic, were also popular with surfers braving the cold water.

Old friends, new friends and the muddiest miles

In England I am always struck by the friendliness of strangers, on the path and in the pubs. Day walkers, often seniors themselves, would offer me coffee, top up my water flasks and ask about my mission. This year I made new friends along the way, two of them fellow Canadians, and walked with them over several days, grateful for the company and the extra reassurance on the extremely muddy and steep sections of North Devon.

My good friends from Norfolk, whom I had met the previous year, kindly came south and joined me for three days, one of them in truly atrocious weather, between the fishing towns of Bude and Padstow. It was wonderful to see them again, and a good example of how quickly people with the same passion for hiking seem to bond on the trail and look out for one another.

South West Coast Path walkers pass gorse-covered cliffs above a turquoise cove |  Peter Wells South West Coast Path walk overlooks a harbour village on the English coast |  Peter Wells South West Coast Path walker pauses beside the trail sign near a beach |  Peter Wells
 

A rest at Padstow, then on to St Ives

After two weeks on the northern stretch, a special treat awaited: staying with cousins on a farm near Padstow for a weekend of rest, good food and laundry. From there, I was ready for the final five days along a coastline of farmland, clifftop combes, beaches and sand dunes, reaching St Ives at last, where more friends and relatives were waiting to greet me.

Lessons from the path

Exploring the South West Coast Path on foot is highly recommended, with countless options for walks of varying length along the way. A few lessons from two long springs on the trail: break in your boots well before you go, pack lighter than you think you need to, use two trekking poles on the steeper and muddier sections, take a rest day when you need one, and recognise the early signs of fatigue brought on by tough weather and long climbs. More than anything, enjoy the people you meet along the way. The kindness of strangers, and the company of fellow walkers on the harder days, is as much a part of this path as the cliffs and the coves.

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Traveller’s Tale: Walking The Norfolk Coast Path

Traveller's Tales: Walking the Norfolk Coast Path

Walkers' Britain & Europe traveller Peter G. Wells travelled to England and walked the Norfolk Coast Path with friends over seven days, from Great Yarmouth to Burnham Deepdale. Here is his account.

Nature, history and coastal change

In mid-April, I once again flew over the North Atlantic to England, home of my ancestors and many cousins and friends. On this trip, one objective was to hike and explore the Norfolk Coast Path. The path is one of the UK's national trails, noted for easy access, walkability, history, and exposure to some of the country's best unspoiled and biologically diverse landscapes.

The path is in the county of Norfolk, north-east of London and adjacent to the North Sea. It runs from the towns of Hopton on Sea and Great Yarmouth, just north of Lowestoft, all the way to Hunstanton on The Wash, a large coastal embayment. The path ambles along a coastal landscape of sandy and rocky beaches, extensive sand dunes, high cliffs, farm fields, salt marshes and dykes, and the waterfronts of historic Victorian towns and ancient villages. It is joined to another national path, the Peddars Way, a long ancient inland walk that follows an old Roman road through the heart of Norfolk. Together, the two paths run 216 km of fairly easy walking, a combination of flat and undulating terrain through both wildness and settled land.

Norfolk Coast Path route map tracing the trail from Knettishall Heath to Cromer |  Peter Wells Norfolk Coast Path walkers pause to view a tidal estuary with binoculars |  Peter Wells Norfolk coast lifeboat on a trailer with crew preparing on a sandy beach |  Peter Wells
 

Old friends and generous hosts

After a harrowing night at Heathrow Airport, where I discovered my booked hotel had been turned into a refugee centre, I travelled through London and took the train to Norwich, the capital of Norfolk. I was met at the train station by friends Graham and Jenny, who live nearby in the village of Brundall. I had met them years earlier on the South West Coast Path, and had hiked with them since. They treated me to a whirlwind tour of the historic city, after which we went to their lovely home for the night. The following day we had a break-in jaunt in county Suffolk, at the Dunwich Nature Reserve of heathlands, woods and open fields. That evening, we decided to hike the Norfolk Coast Path in seven sections, each day coming back to the house for the night. Their hospitality was very generous, and their son drove us back and forth almost every day. Better guides to Norfolk and the path could not be found anywhere.

The Norfolk Coast Path is ancient and well trodden, clearly waymarked and hence easy to follow. For the seven days of walking we were lucky with fine weather and fresh ocean breezes. We started in Great Yarmouth, after exploring the ruins of the ancient Burgh Castle, built by the Romans during their occupation of Britain.

Dunes, seals and crumbling cliffs

The first two days of the walk were mostly a slog along the top of enormous sand dunes and on beaches, both sandy and stone. Many grey seals were seen resting at the water's edge, and are a popular tourist attraction; the pups quite often wander into the dunes and are best left undisturbed. Common, or harbour, seals also thrive along the coast. We soon reached an area of high cliffs that had suffered much erosion from storms and wave action, and passed one house that had just been rescued from toppling over the edge. The beautiful village of Happisburgh is suffering from the increased erosion, often metres of land per year, and more houses and infrastructure may have to be moved soon.

Norfolk Coast Path passes a flint round-tower church and churchyard |  Peter Wells Norfolk Coast Path walking route closed by a crumbling cliffs warning sign above the beach |  Peter Wells Norfolk Coast Path walk passes seals resting on a beach beside a wooden groyne |  Peter Wells
 

Fossils, flint tools and the Deep History Coast

Several locations along the Norfolk coast are well known for their glacial geology and important fossil finds. The skeleton of a steppe mammoth was found in the cliffs of the Cromer Forest Bed at West Runton, south of the Victorian town of Cromer, and evidence of flint tools and imprints of hominid footprints, over 800,000 years old, were recently discovered on the beach at Happisburgh. The various fossils and the history of early humans are described in excellent interpretive displays along the path, in a section called the Deep History Coast, with comfortable benches for resting weary feet. Needless to say, we did not come across ancient animals or prehistoric humans on our walk, but a longer visit could have included more examination of the rocky and sedimentary cliff faces along the way, where continual coastal erosion keeps uncovering secrets of the past.

Along the path are many remnants of defensive structures dating from the Second World War, including gun emplacements, concrete walls, round pillboxes, and many beach groynes designed to prevent boat landings. Norfolk was well fortified during the war due to the expectation of an invasion, and there are also many old airfields inland, as Norfolk was home to massive squadrons of bombers and fighter planes at the time.

A family reunion in Sheringham

Upon reaching the large town of Sheringham after four days on the path, Graham left me to stay with two cousins I had not previously met, a truly memorable family occasion. They are daughters of an uncle who had survived as a prisoner of war for five years, after capture at Calais. We had much catching up to do on family history, with their photo albums at the centre of discussion.

Marshes, dykes and windmills

After that restful interlude, the three of us rejoined and continued walking westward into a coastal landscape of much transformed land. Much of this part of the coast has numerous nature reserves and sites of special scientific interest, and is rich in biodiversity. Birds of all kinds were numerous in the marshes, geese, ducks, songbirds, egrets and other long-legged coastal birds. It is a birdwatcher's wonderland, and in season many species of butterflies are seen. Numerous dykes separate the many small harbours and marshes from the farm fields.

The villages we passed through were beautiful and quaint, with much architecture reflecting the connection to the Netherlands, whose builders dug the dykes many centuries ago. A famous windmill at Cley overlooks enormous stretches of marshes and is a well known landmark. We could have spent longer exploring sites like this.

Pints, pubs and a chance encounter

In the prosperous fishing village of Wells-next-the-Sea, we met the sister and niece of a colleague of mine in a lovely old pub. At the end of a long day on the dykes, we conveyed messages from home over well-earned pints of local beer. Pubs were often the stopping place at day's end, my friends seemingly knowing the location of each of them.

Norfolk Coast Path signpost pointing toward King's Lynn and Lincolnshire |  Shutterstock

The final stretch to Burnham Deepdale

Beyond Wells-next-the-Sea lay a lifeboat station, one of many, sandy beaches lined with colourful huts popular with visitors, woods of pine trees, another huge dune system, and a long stretch of dykes. Our walk ended in the village of Burnham Deepdale, in the shadow of an ancient church. We were only one day from our planned destination of Hunstanton, but time intervened, so this stretch of the path awaits another visit. We bussed back to our meeting place for the ride to Brundall, happy with what we had accomplished over seven days, approximately 110 km, and full of good memories.

A country of endless stories

The walk has amazing variety, from quite wild stretches of coastline to historic churches, windmills, ancient villages and modern towns. It leaves one with a sense of both historic and contemporary England, a country that has endless stories to tell.

Of great current interest is how the whole Norfolk coastline is adapting to advancing climate change and a powerful ocean. Much of it is very prone to erosion, and it is in the news a lot, especially after the storms that these days frequently sweep the country. Hopefully the coastal towns and villages of Norfolk will be able to adapt and mitigate the effects of such severe and damaging storms, and preserve this wonderful coastal walk for the future.

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Poem: Walking St Cuthbert's Way (by Martin Strasmore)

Poem: Walking St Cuthbert's Way

Walkers' Britain & Europe traveller Martin Strasmore, known to many readers as “The Walking Poet,” continues his account of St Cuthbert's Way, following the old Roman road of Dere Street from Jedburgh towards Morebattle, past Cessford Castle and grazing sheep. Here is his poem of the day, in his own words. 

> Click here to read part 1 of this poem.

Following the Roman Road

Dere street the Roman road
Saint Cuthbert walked here
through old woodlands
full of dark green ferns
stone walls separating the trees
from rolling hills of farmland.

Walking with Tim and his dog,
out for the day,
Listening to local scottish history
Seeing fields of barley and oats
growing here today
and maybe for centuries.

Unexpectedly the grassy path
becomes a swathe of daisies
alongside a perfectly straight stone wall
aiming straight for a distant copse.

As the trail veers right,
Cessford Castle appears.
500 years old solid as a rock.
A scottish fortress of thick walls
and now surrounded,
By grazing sheep.

Resting here with the friendly sheep
before I walk onto Morebattle,
A village of cottage gardens
filled with flowers at their colorful peaks,
and a memorial to lives lost
in the Great War.

Reaching the tiny hotel
welcomed into the friendly bar
By the Scottish Kenyan hosts.
I find Tim and the 4 ladies
They passed me at Cessford.

I will staying here tonight
Getting prepared for tomorrow’s
Walk Over the highest hill
I order macaroni and cheese
Cider and salad.
I will be ready!

About the Author

Martin Strasmore writes and photographs long-distance trails under the name The Walking Poet, drawing on more than a decade of walks around the world, from Kilimanjaro and the Camino de Santiago to the Coast to Coast Walk, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, the Israel National Trail and the Tour du Mont Blanc. Many of these journeys are collected into his self-published books of poetry and photography, with profits supporting the charitable foundation PRASAD. Martin also co-hosts a poetry podcast, Poetry For Now, with his wife Kassandra. You can find more of his poems and photography at thewalkingpoet.net.

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Poem: Walking St Cuthbert's Way (by Martin Strasmore)

Poem: Walking St Cuthbert's Way

Walkers' Britain & Europe traveller Martin Strasmore, known to many readers as “The Walking Poet,” set out to walk St Cuthbert's Way, following the ancient pilgrim route from Melrose to Holy Island. A poet and photographer with over a decade of long-distance trails behind him, Martin turned his first day on the path into verse. Here is his account, in his own words. 

> Click here to read part 2 of this poem.

Following St Cuthbert's Way

Maybe Saint Cuthbert started walking this way
Leaving Melrose Abbey through the town center
drizzling Scottish rain to start the day
finding the subtle sign between cottages
Leading up into the Eildon hills
steady uphill, deep breathing,
reaching the saddle between the highest hills
dipping down into the woods.

Being a Pilgrim on the path
Opens my heart, eyes and ears
to God’s creation
Life is simple
Each step carries me forward
leaving behind what came before
taking me to experience
the pure freedom of being,
being present now.

First steps along the River Tweed
On the footbridge an angler,
enjoying the sparkling water,
the babbling sounds,
he does not disturb
the Scottish salmon
swimming somewhere below us

Up a winding road
the ruins of Dryburgh Abbey
I can feel the faith, the prayers
The discipline of silence and study
the community of canons (monks) followed
in the magnificent cloisters, the gardens
The church dedicated to the Virgin Mary
Filled with the power of prayer.

Back again on the “way”,
alongside the golf course
Now along the River Tweed
the sweet smell of honeysuckle
then edging farmers fields,
for what seems like hours.
The path is overgrown,
I’m not sure this is it.

The sound of thunder
The falling rain
signal that my first day
needs to be cut short.
I take a ride to Jedburgh
for my night’s rest.

About the Author

Martin Strasmore writes and photographs long-distance trails under the name The Walking Poet, drawing on more than a decade of walks around the world, from Kilimanjaro and the Camino de Santiago to the Coast to Coast Walk, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, the Israel National Trail and the Tour du Mont Blanc. Many of these journeys are collected into his self-published books of poetry and photography, with profits supporting the charitable foundation PRASAD. Martin also co-hosts a poetry podcast, Poetry For Now, with his wife Kassandra. You can find more of his poems and photography at thewalkingpoet.net.

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Webinar: Walking the West Highland Way

Webinar: The West Highland Way with Jon and Fiona

Join Jon and Fiona as they walk the West Highland Way, Scotland's oldest long-distance trail and one of Britain's most-loved hiking routes. Spanning 96 miles (154km) from Milngavie, just outside Glasgow, to Fort William at the foot of Ben Nevis, this trail is loved by walkers for its lochside paths, wild moorland and dramatic Highland scenery.

 

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About the West Highland Way

A route famous in walking circles and popular with clubs and Duke of Edinburgh's award schemes, the West Highland Way is a 'safe' walk and a good option for entry-level long distance hikers. You can get lost in conversation without getting too lost on the route.

If you try to be quiet on your walk, you may avoid scaring some of the Scottish wildlife away. Although it is rare to spot wild cat, pole cat, otters, foxes and badgers, you would quite likely come across surprise encounters with red deer around Rannoch Mor or the small Sitka deer in the forests. There is a population of cute feral goats at Inversnaid, which were left over from the sad times of the Clearances. You may hear the hammering of spotted woodpecker and the drumming of capercaillie. There are certain times where you may see golden eagles, ospreys and falcons. In forests watch out for long-tailed tits, crested tits, siskins and crossbills.

In late spring and early summer, cotton grass and beautiful buttercups speckle the otherwise green and brown landscape. A few orchids can also be found. Heading over the pass in Kinlochleven and in the Mamores the landscape may house tiny carnivorous plants called butterworts and sundews, which prey on midges.

The attraction of walking the West Highland Way lies in walking out of a big city, through an undulating ploughed and cow grazed landscape, before reaching the Trossachs National Park. Pass the Highland Boundary Fault, then up the side of Loch Lomond and walk into a very different rugged landscape of big hills, farming hamlets and more lakes. These mark the start of the Scottish Highlands.

Walking in the hills on the West Highland Way
 

Hosted by two of Walkers' most experienced guides, Fiona Marshall and Jon Millen, who share over 60 years of trail knowledge between them, this webinar walks you through the glens, the old stone bridges and the silence of Rannoch Moor, so you know exactly what to expect on the trail.

Whether you're inspired by tales of the Highlands, planning your first long-distance hike, or simply looking for one of Scotland's most rewarding trails, the West Highland Way delivers an unforgettable walking experience.

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Traveller's Tale: Walking The Fife Coastal Path

Traveller's Tales: Walking the Fife Coastal Path

Walkers' Britain & Europe traveller Peter G. Wells travelled to Scotland and walked our Fife Coastal Path with a group of friends over six days in April 2026, from North Queensferry to Dundee. Here is his account.

Setting off along the Firth of Forth

Scotland is renowned for its long-distance national paths. In April, 2026, after a few days exploring the nearby ancient city of Edinburgh, I embarked on a six-day tramp along the northern coastline of the Firth of Forth. This is the Fife Coastal Path in the "Kingdom of Fife", a path created in 2002 and later extended to its current length of 116 miles (187 km), from Kincardine on the Firth of Forth to Newburgh on the Firth of Tay.

With the truly excellent guidebook in my pack and hand, I began the walk at the train station in North Queensferry, across the Firth from Edinburgh, and near two famous bridges. The destination was Dundee. Over six days, I walked approx.115 km with my friends, but missed the path's two end sections due to limited time. Another time, perhaps!

The Fife Coastal Path |  Peter Wells The Fife Coastal Path |  Peter Wells The Fife Coastal Path |  Peter Wells
 

Finding my feet, then finding my companions

This Scottish walk was much anticipated due to its many attractions, from geology to ancient castles to a varied coastline with a rich biodiversity. I spent the first day alone, straying off route a few times but guided back by kind local people. On day two, it was good to meet my four companions, Graham and Jenny from Norfolk, and Kim and Sue from Massachusetts, in Dysart and Leven, respectively. Over the next five days, we walked together to Leven, Elie, Crail, the university town of St. Andrews, and on to the port of Dundee.

Our merry group greatly enjoyed walking together. We happily managed 15-20 km a day at a pleasant pace. We supported each other on the tougher cliffy parts, and stopped often for views and refreshments. We had great fun taking group photos and selfies, bonding easily, and sharing our many interests as we strolled along. We avoided trying out the famed cliff walk, near Elie, reckoning that was for younger walkers! There were few other walkers, perhaps due to the early season as it is noted to be the most popular coastal walk in Scotland.

Fair weather and foul

The weather was mostly on our side -- sunny, some cloudy periods, often warm but also at times quite cool and breezy, requiring wind-proof layers. I experienced a bout of hail and we all sheltered during brief intensive downpour. Near-perfect walking conditions!

Our hotels were booked ahead of time, by Walkers Britain. That included luggage transfer, comfortable beds, and hearty breakfasts. Finding lunches and restaurants for dinners proved to be easy. Pubs proliferated!

The Fife Coastal Path |  Peter Wells The Fife Coastal Path |  Peter Wells The Fife Coastal Path |  Peter Wells
 

Villages, castles and coastline

This coastal path is full of variety! Walking is easy, with only a few truly challenging parts. Each day was different. There are a few urban sections early on; beyond Leven, the coast is sprinkled with small villages and fishing ports, and some parts are quite wild and unspoiled. The many small bays, such as Shell Bay near Elie, are beautiful. The walk covers a mixture of geology, archaeology, human and military heritage, and biodiversity. We enjoyed the mix - the tops of rolling sand dunes and rocky cliffs, roads through charming towns that offered many choices of pubs and tea rooms, and long stretches of path, often old railway lines, along-side farm fields and golf courses. We came across the foundations of ancient abbeys, ruins of castles and churches, a windmill at St. Monans, fascinating caves and rocky outcrops, and a sheltered beach filled with seashells, mostly limpets.

The villages along the path are centuries old, with very attractive and colourful buildings, and ports full of small fishing vessels and sail boats. Fishing and tourism appear to maintain the economy. Mines and quarries proliferated in an earlier era, hence the signs of railways. An unexpected surprise on the route through Kirkcaldy was a memorial to the birthplace of Sir Sanford Fleming, a Scot turned Canadian, a surveyor famous for inventing time zones and building our railroads. I live next to Fleming Park in Halifax, NS, his former summer home.

Literary ghosts and local legends

In Lower Largo, just north of Leven, we marvelled at the statue of Alexander Selkirk, "upon whom Daniel Dafoe modelled Robinson Crusoe". In Anstruther, beyond Elie, I was delighted to "discover" the Scottish Fisheries Museum, closed but noted, and likely popular with summer walkers.

The Fife Coastal Path |  Peter Wells The Fife Coastal Path |  Peter Wells The Fife Coastal Path |  Peter Wells
 

Spring wildlife along the path

Given that it was early spring (the third week of April), vegetation along the path was just greening up with many wild flowers, colourful shrubs such as gorse, and attendant insects. Wildlife seemed scarce but we did see various migratory shorebirds, the occasional heron, and some seals on the rocky shores. Fields with grazing highland cattle really piqued our interest.

The Fife Coastal Path |  Peter Wells The Fife Coastal Path |  Peter Wells The Fife Coastal Path |  Peter Wells
 

Fife Ness to St Andrews

Going around the cape of Fife Ness, beyond Crail and approaching St. Andrews, the coastline is quite wild and the rocky beaches and cliffs demanding. We edged alongside several golf courses and took great delight at finding lost golf balls near the path. Sadly, the natural coastal landscape for many kilometers has been changed by the Scottish and international passion for golf -- long cultivated fairways and greens support few insects and birds, and herbicides and fertilizers are widely used. That said, St. Andrews is a vibrant, historic and beautiful university town. Arriving on a Friday evening, the streets were filled with young and energetic students. We dined well in a lovely restaurant. The following morning, three of us explored the ruins of its huge ancient cathedral.

The final stretch to the Tay

The last section of the path from Leuchars to Tayport and the Firth of Tay is spectacular with its deep forests, a stone ice-house, extensive salt marshes and long stretches of vegetated dunes and sandy beaches. A real feeling of isolation was felt in this stretch of the path.

From Tayport, we took a bus to Dundee to save a long stretch of road walking and a busy bridge across the Tay estuary. After days of walking, it was good to reach our final destination and a chance the following day to explore the ship "Discovery" of Antarctic fame (another story awaits here!).

The Fife Coastal Path |  Peter Wells The Fife Coastal Path |  Peter Wells The Fife Coastal Path |  Peter Wells
 

A memorable adventure

Walking the Fife Coastal Path is a memorable adventure. It provides an intimate introduction to Scottish history, its beautiful villages and countryside, and its varied coastline. The well-marked path is highly recommended for walkers of all ages. And not to be forgotten is the opportunity to combine it with the Fife Pilgrim Way, from St. Andrews back to Culross, making a circular route for the truly energetic walker! The County of Fife has so much to offer. Let's keep exploring the national paths of Scotland!

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Walking in Warm Weather Tips

Walking in Warm Weather: Tips for Staying Comfortable on Europe's Trails

Walking through Europe in summer brings a variety of joys. From lavender fields in Provence and sun-drenched coastal paths in Portugal to alpine meadows in Switzerland and rolling countryside in England, the longer days and warmer temperatures create spectacular walking conditions.

However, warm weather can also make your daily walks more challenging than expected. A little preparation goes a long way in helping you stay comfortable, safe and ready to enjoy every step. Whether you are exploring a famous long-distance trail such as the Cotswold Way or discovering hidden villages at your own pace in the Ecrins National Park, these simple tips will help you make the most of walking in warmer conditions.

Cooling off their feet after a day of walking in Italy. |  Sue Badyari

Start Early and Enjoy the Cooler Hours

Early mornings are often the most rewarding time to walk. Temperatures are generally cooler, the trails are quieter and the light is perfect for photography. If you are travelling on a self-guided holiday, consider setting off earlier than usual. Many accommodations are happy to prepare a packed breakfast or provide an early start if you let them know in advance. By covering most of your distance before midday, you will have plenty of time to relax during the warmer afternoon hours.

Having a picnic lunch along the Coast to Coast |  John Millen

Stay Hydrated Throughout the Day

Hydration is one of the simplest ways to stay comfortable while walking. Carry a refillable water bottle and drink regularly throughout the day, even if you do not feel thirsty. On particularly warm days or during longer walks, electrolyte tablets or hydration supplements can help replace minerals lost through sweating. Whenever you stop in a village or cafe, take the opportunity to refill your bottle before continuing.

Filling up a water bottle in Madeira |  Kate Baker

Dress for the Conditions

Lightweight, breathable clothing can make a noticeable difference when temperatures rise. Choose loose-fitting garments in light colours where possible, along with a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses for extra protection. Comfortable, moisture-wicking fabrics will help keep you cooler during the day. Do not forget sunscreen. Apply it before setting out each morning and reapply regularly, particularly after sweating or if you are spending long periods in direct sunlight.

Slow the Pace and Enjoy the Journey

One of the pleasures of a walking holiday is that there is generally no need to rush. On warmer days, allow yourself extra time to reach your destination. Take regular breaks in the shade, pause at local cafes and enjoy the scenery along the way. Walking a little more slowly is often the best way to conserve energy while appreciating the landscapes you are travelling through. Your holiday is about the experience as much as the destination.

Sitting in the shade of an ancient olive tree

Be Aware of How You Are Feeling

Warm weather affects everyone differently, especially if you are not used to walking in higher temperatures. Pay attention to early warning signs that your body may need a break, including dizziness, headache, unusual tiredness, nausea or excessive sweating. If you experience any of these symptoms, stop walking, find shade, drink water and allow yourself time to cool down. If symptoms persist or worsen, seek local medical assistance.

Do Not Be Surprised if Your Accommodation Has No Air Conditioning

Many of Britain's and Europe's most characterful accommodations are historic inns, family-run guesthouses and rural hotels that predate modern air conditioning. If your room feels warm, ask your hosts if a fan is available. Keeping curtains closed during the hottest part of the day and using a cool, damp towel can also help make your room more comfortable overnight.

Hotel Salgueiro in Porto Moniz |  Peggy Dion

Before You Set Out Each Day

A few simple habits will help you stay comfortable and safe on warmer walking days. Begin each day well hydrated, carry extra water and snacks, and adjust your pace if temperatures are high. Follow any local advice provided in your route notes and be flexible if weather conditions or local authorities recommend changes to your planned route. Conditions can change quickly, particularly in mountainous or rural regions, so it is always worth checking the local forecast before you head off.

Walking around Le Besset |  Keith Starr

A Note on Summer Weather Across Britain and Europe

Summer weather can vary considerably from one region to another. While some areas enjoy pleasant walking temperatures, others may see periods of intense heat or an increased risk of wildfires. Checking local forecasts each morning and following any guidance from local authorities will help you plan your day with confidence.

Walking holidays are about connecting with the landscapes, history and culture of the places you visit. With a little preparation, warm weather simply becomes another part of the adventure. An early start, plenty of water and a flexible approach will help ensure you can enjoy Britain's and Europe's spectacular walking trails comfortably throughout the summer. Some of the best travel memories are made when you slow down, embrace the rhythm of the trail and let each day unfold at its own pace.

>> Browse self-guided walking holidays in Britain and Europe

>> Browse guided walking holidays in Britain and Europe


Why Choose a Guided Walking Holiday

Why Choose a Guided Walking Holiday: Expert Advice from Jon Millen

We sat down with Jon Millen, one of our most experienced guides, to get his inside view on guided walking holidays. From group dynamics to preparation tips, Jon shares honest and practical advice for anyone weighing up their options.

Why Do People Choose a Guided Walk?

"A major reason people choose guided walks is the group experience," Jon explains. "Walkers enjoy meeting new people and sharing the journey together. Some participants, although fit, might lack confidence in navigating or walking alone, so they appreciate the added security of a guided group."

What is the Difference Between Guided and Self-Guided Walking?

According to Jon, the key distinction lies in the level of support and expertise provided.

Guided walking holidays mean an experienced guide accompanies you every day. They handle route-finding, ensure group safety and adapt plans to suit weather conditions. Guides share insights about the area's history and natural environment, manage accommodation logistics, arrange meals and troubleshoot any issues along the way.

Self-guided walking holidays put you in charge of your own experience. This gives you the freedom to walk at your own pace and create a personal schedule, but you are responsible for navigation, safety and coordinating logistics.

Approaching the end of the Coast to Coast near Robin Hood's Bay |  John Millen

Who Typically Joins a Guided Walk?

Guided groups typically attract walkers from their 40s to early 70s, though ages can vary widely. Groups are usually made up of 6 to 12 participants from across the globe, creating an intimate and sociable dynamic that many find to be one of the highlights of the experience.

Do Travellers Need to Bring Their Own Food?

"Not usually," Jon says. "Unless you have specific dietary needs that cannot be accommodated, food is readily available on our guided walking holidays in the UK and Europe. Most travellers buy snacks and packed lunches from their accommodation or local shops. Evening meals can be enjoyed with the group or individually, depending on your preference. Guides are there to help with food recommendations and can reserve tables for the group where needed."

What Happens if There are Different Walking Speeds in the Group?

Managing varying walking speeds is one of a guide's biggest challenges. Jon is candid about it.

For faster walkers, he notes: "Those seeking a more athletic pace may want to consider a self-guided trip if they are conscious about this and the effect a slower pace may have on their enjoyment."

For slower walkers: "It is essential to assess your fitness level before joining a guided walk. Tours are graded to ensure participants can handle the distances and conditions comfortably. A safety element comes into play here."

Guides encourage faster walkers to moderate their pace and slower walkers to pick up their rhythm. Many participants find their stride after a few days. In cases where a traveller genuinely cannot keep up safely, they may skip a day's walk and use local transport to reach the next accommodation. "Most walks are in beautiful areas, so even a non-walking day can be enjoyable," Jon notes.

Grading and Safety

Our tours are graded to ensure all walkers have the appropriate level of fitness for the holiday. Participants should be able to complete the distances comfortably without slowing the group. In challenging weather, waiting for slower walkers can leave others cold or tired. If a guide feels someone is at risk, they may advise them to skip certain sections for their own safety and the wellbeing of the group.

Do You Need to Prepare Differently for a Guided Trip vs Self-Guided?

Preparation is important for both, but the requirements differ. On a guided walk, physical preparation should match the grade of the trip. Your guide handles the logistics, safety and navigation, allowing you to focus entirely on enjoying the walk.

On a self-guided walk, a higher level of personal preparation is needed. You will plan your own itinerary, navigate independently and coordinate your own logistics. "There is more independence, but it also means more responsibility," Jon explains.


Our Guided Walking Holidays

Inspired to walk with a guide? Here are some of our most popular guided walking holidays across the UK and beyond.

Join a small, international group of like-minded walkers on our Coast to Coast holidays |  John Millen

Coast to Coast Guided Explorer — 17 Days

One of Britain's most iconic long-distance trails, the Coast to Coast covers approximately 315km (195 miles) across the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors. This extended 17-day itinerary allows a more relaxed pace, with time to appreciate the landscape and enjoy the camaraderie of a small, expert-led group. Beginning at St Bees on the Irish Sea and finishing at Robin Hood's Bay on the North Sea, this is English hillwalking at its finest. Graded challenging.

>> View the Coast to Coast Guided Explorer

Find camaraderie on a Coast to Coast small guided group departure |  John Millen

Best of the Coast to Coast in Comfort — Guided

A 10-day guided itinerary that takes in the finest sections of Wainwright's legendary route, with handpicked boutique hotels, charming coaching inns and even a night in a castle. Along the way, enjoy afternoon tea, a Victorian steamboat cruise on Ullswater, a visit to a Swaledale farm and a steam train ride across the North York Moors. The trip concludes with a celebratory dinner in the historic city of York. An unforgettable way to experience the Coast to Coast. Graded moderate to challenging.

>> View the Coast to Coast in Comfort

Enjoy charming British countryside while walking along Hadrian's Wall |  John Millen

Hadrian's Wall Guided Walk

Cross England from coast to coast following the world's most famous Roman frontier. This 9-day guided itinerary traces the 135km Hadrian's Wall Path from Whitley Bay on the North Sea to Carlisle, passing through Northumberland National Park, the dramatic central crags, the iconic Sycamore Gap and the ancient garrison fort at Housesteads. A dedicated day is set aside to explore the remarkable Roman site at Vindolanda. Includes a stargazing experience in Northumberland's International Dark Sky Park. Graded moderate.

>> View the Hadrian's Wall Guided Walk

Hike up to the summit of Pico do Arieiro in Madeira

Madeira Guided Walk

An 8-day guided walking holiday on one of the world's most extraordinary islands. Led by an experienced local mountain guide, this itinerary takes in some of Madeira's finest trails, including the dramatic Three Peaks ridge, the ancient Witch Trees of Fanal, the iconic levada walks of the northwest and the volcanic lava pools at Porto Moniz. With private transfers throughout, all logistics are handled so you can focus entirely on the walking. Graded moderate to challenging.

>> View the Madeira Guided Walk

>> View all guided walking holidays


Watch: Walking Madeira's Levadas, Peaks and Coastline

Watch: Walking Madeira's Levadas, Peaks and Coastline

Closer to Africa than Europe, Madeira is one of the world's great walking destinations. A volcanic island rising abruptly from the Atlantic Ocean, its rugged interior reaches over 1,800 metres, its coastline is dramatic and wild, and its extraordinary network of levadas (ancient irrigation channels) provides walkers with thousands of kilometres of trails through a landscape unlike anywhere else on earth. Our film captures it beautifully.

Madeira Walking Itineraries

We offer four carefully designed itineraries covering different parts of the island, from a fully guided group experience to self-guided adventures spanning the full length of Madeira. Here is a brief overview of each.

Hike up to the summit of Pico do Arieiro in Madeira

Madeira Guided Walk

This 8-day guided itinerary is led by an experienced local mountain guide and takes in some of the best walks the island has to offer. Summit Pico do Arieiro (1,818m) and Pico Ruivo (1,862m), walk to the famous Witch Trees of Fanal, follow the levadas to spectacular waterfalls and visit the volcanic lava pools at Porto Moniz. With private transfers throughout and a small international group, this is the most supported and sociable way to explore Madeira's mountains. Graded moderate to challenging.

>> View the Madeira Guided Walk

Madeira is a spectacular walking destination |  Sue Badyari

Madeira Island Walking

This popular 8-day self-guided itinerary covers the eastern half of the island, from the historic landing point of Machico to the dramatic levada walks of the Madeira Natural Park. Highlights include the coastal path to Porto da Cruz, the classic Monte to Camacha levada walk and a summit of Pico Ruivo. A mix of 4-star hotels and traditional guesthouses provides character throughout. Graded moderate.

>> View Madeira Island Walking

Take a dip at Madeira's natural lava pools |  Steve Douglas

Western Madeira Hiking

This 8-day self-guided itinerary focuses on the quieter north, west and central parts of the island, including areas rarely visited by most travellers. Walk the historic Caminho Real to the fishing village of Paul do Mar, explore the abandoned farmsteads of Fajã da Quebrada Nova, swim in the natural lava pools at Porto Moniz and follow one of the island's most celebrated levada routes through ancient laurel forest. Graded moderate to challenging.

>> View Western Madeira Hiking

Discover the island of Madeira |  Tim Charody

Madeira Island Walking: East to West

For those who want to experience the full diversity of the island, this 15-day self-guided itinerary combines the best walks from both the eastern and western itineraries into one complete Madeira experience. Beginning in Machico and travelling westward across the island, it takes in levada walks, high-altitude ridge walking, Atlantic coastline, volcanic rock pools and the full range of Madeira's extraordinary landscapes. The most comprehensive way to discover the island on foot. Graded moderate to challenging.

>> View Madeira Island Walking: East to West


Watch: Walking the Thames Path with Tony Robinson

Watch: Walking the Thames Path with Tony Robinson

Sir Tony Robinson has always been fascinated by the River Thames. In this wonderful film, he makes the full 200-mile journey from source to sea, discovering what makes it one of the greatest rivers in the world. The journey begins at the very source of the Thames, a pure spring rising from the ground in a quiet Gloucestershire field, and follows the river all the way to London and beyond. It is a perfect introduction to everything that makes the Thames Path one of England's most varied and rewarding long-distance walks.

Walk the Thames Path: 3 Itineraries

Inspired to follow in Tony's footsteps? Walkers' Britain & Europe offers three carefully designed self-guided itineraries covering the full length of the Thames Path National Trail, from the Cotswolds to the Thames Barrier.

Windsor Castle Panorama |  Shutterstock

Thames Path West

This 9-day itinerary covers the longer and quieter half of the trail, tracing the Thames from its source near the Cotswold village of Kemble to the elegant boating town of Henley-on-Thames. The river is narrower and more peaceful here, passing through flower-filled meadows, Cotswold villages, historic market towns and traditional riverside pubs. Highlights include the Saxon town of Cricklade, the riverside charm of Lechlade and the dreaming spires of Oxford. A wonderful introduction to long-distance walking in quintessential English countryside.

>> View Thames Path West

Riverside Trails on the Thames Path |  Shutterstock

Best of the Thames Path: Oxford to Windsor

This 8-day itinerary captures the very best of the middle section of the trail, beginning among the dreaming spires of Oxford and ending beneath the towers of Windsor Castle. The route follows the Thames through historic market towns, elegant riverside villages and some of the country's most cherished countryside, passing through Wallingford, Pangbourne and Henley-on-Thames before finishing in royal Windsor. Literary connections abound throughout, from Kenneth Grahame's Wind in the Willows to the banks that inspired Jerome K. Jerome. An excellent introduction to National Trail walking.

>> View Best of the Thames Path: Oxford to Windsor

Ducks soaking up a wonderfully sunny day in England |  John Millen

Thames Path East

This 9-day itinerary covers the second half of the National Trail, tracing the river from Henley-on-Thames into the heart of London and on to the Thames Barrier at Greenwich. The route passes Windsor Castle, Hampton Court Palace and Kew Gardens before entering the capital, where the towpath winds through royal parks, past iconic bridges and along the South Bank to finish at Greenwich. A uniquely varied walk that blends peaceful riverside countryside with the energy and history of one of the world's great cities.

>> View Thames Path East


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